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What a Corduroy Rib Feels Like

Corduroy is a woven fabric with a cut pile that forms raised ribs called wales. On fine corduroy, the ribs sit close enough to look almost smooth from across a room. Wider ribs cast more visible shadows.

Pass a finger across the ribs, then along one. The first movement crosses ridges and channels. The second follows a single line. That difference helps identify corduroy when a dyed stripe or the lighting in a photo makes the cloth look ribbed.

Count Wales With a Ruler

EOS Fabrics uses ribs per inch to describe wale size. Lay the cloth flat and set the ruler perpendicular to the ridges. On trousers with ribs running down the leg, the ruler goes across the leg.

1. Start at the center of a ridge in a flat area away from a seam.
2. Count each ridge center across an inch, including the first. Leave out a center that lands exactly on the far mark.
3. For wide ribs, count across two inches and divide by two. Eleven ridge centers across two inches is about 5½ wales per inch.

Sixteen wales per inch usually look finer than eight. The count tells you the spacing. Check thickness and stretch separately, and ask for a close-up with a ruler if the product photo has no scale.

When a Dark Patch Is the Nap

Brush two strips of the same cloth in opposite directions under the same light. A change in shade as you brush can come from the direction of the pile, or nap. Guthrie & Ghani's fabric guide shows why direction matters when garment pieces are cut.

If the same patch at the knee stays darker as you turn the fabric, run your fingers over the ribs there and above the knee. A flatter patch can point to wear or pressure. Photos taken under different lights make that hard to judge.

Check the Texture Across a Whole Coat

On the tailored corduroy coat, compare the texture across the broad front panel and the sleeves. The model photo shows the whole silhouette and where the texture reads most clearly. Ask for a scaled close-up if rib spacing matters to you.

Use the front or side photo to see how much the ribs stand out across the whole coat. The leather and corduroy comparison is useful if you're also considering leather for the same outfit.

Check the Knee and Seat in Corduroy Pants

On the tan flared trousers, the ribs follow the leg from the waist through the flare below the knee. The full-length photo shows the cut, so use it to compare the shape with trousers you already like.

The fabric card lists 99.1% cotton and 0.9% spandex. It gives no measured stretch percentage.

Test the Fit While Sitting

Sit with both feet on the floor and compare the pull at the thighs and knees. If the cut binds as you bend, compare room through the seat and leg first.

A roomier cut can leave you with the same rib texture and more room to move. Compare the cut in the trousers collection after deciding where you need that room.

To see whether two corduroy pieces match, brush the pile on both in the same direction and hold them next to each other under the same light. Then compare the color.

Diagnose a Shiny Knee Before Washing Corduroy

When a knee looks shiny, compare it with the cloth above it under the same light. On the same rib, smooth the short pile one way and then the other with your fingers. Repeat above the knee under the same light. A change that follows the direction of the pile in both areas points to reflected light. A patch that stays shiny and feels flatter may be worn or compressed.

If the Same Spot Stays Shiny

Feel the top of the ribs. If the knee feels flatter than the cloth on either side, pressure or wear is a better explanation than color alone. Avoid pressing the shiny face to try to bring it back. Heat or pressure can make the raised surface flatter.

Follow the care label on your own garment. Amundsen's care guide recommends turning its washable corduroy trousers inside out and washing them with similar colors. A lined corduroy coat may call for a different method.

Questions About Corduroy Ribs and Stretch