Article Summary
Selvedge denim has a finished edge woven into the fabric. On jeans, check inside the outer leg seam. Raw denim describes the wash state, so a jacket can use selvedge denim and still be washed.
Find the Selvedge Inside the Cuff
Selvedge denim has a self-finished edge woven along the side of the fabric. On jeans, turn the cuff up and find the outside seam. Follow the narrow band to the point where the cloth ends.
Inside a turned-up cuff
Woven edge
The narrow band continues right to the end of the cloth.
Overlocked edge
Loops of finishing thread wrap a cut fabric edge.
Decorative line
Stitches sit inside the edge. The actual edge remains a separate detail.
Illustration of seam details. The colors are examples.
Red thread can appear on any of these finishes. A woven band follows the cloth edge continuously. The loops on an overlocked seam wrap around an edge that has been cut. A decorative stitch sits away from the edge. Todd Shelton’s denim photos show where to look on its jeans, and Levi’s guide explains how the band forms on the loom.
Ask for a Photo of the Open Seam
A resale listing can say “red-line selvedge” while showing only the front of a rolled cuff. Ask the seller for a close picture of the outside leg seam laid open.
Could you turn up the cuff and photograph the outside seam from the inside? Please include both edges and a little of the blue fabric on either side.
Two continuous bands where the cloth ends support the claim at that seam. If the bands are hidden by binding, ask for the original specification or another exposed edge the maker identifies. If you cannot verify the woven edge, judge the price on the fit and fabric you can check. Compare the rise, thigh and inseam with a pair you already wear before buying.
Read Raw, Wash, Weight and Stretch Separately
Selvedge describes how the fabric edge was made. Raw denim describes the wash or finishing state in the seller’s denim terminology. A garment can use selvedge fabric and be washed for a softer feel or a faded surface. Ask whether the garment was washed and what the seller says about shrinkage for that exact item, especially if you plan to hem it.
- Wash
- Look for a named finish or wash in the description. Surface fades and creases show the look you are buying. They cannot tell you the fabric’s full processing history.
- Weight
- When listed in ounces per square yard, the number describes the weight of the fabric per area. If you want jeans to wear in warm weather, compare that number and look at the fit through the thigh. A roomy cut changes how the jeans feel in motion.
- Stretch
- Read the fiber list for elastane or another stretch fiber, then sit and take a long step in the garment. Even two cuts made from the same cloth can pull differently across the seat.
The lighter areas across the blue body are visible in the jacket photo. The Firelady denim and sheepskin jacket listing describes that body as enzyme washed. This view gives you evidence of how the finish looks. The woven edge itself would need a close photo of an exposed seam.
Decide When the Edge Is Worth Paying For
If you want a turned-up jean hem that shows the narrow band, buy the pair where you can verify the edge and check how much length the cuff takes up. Put on the shoes you wear with those jeans. A turn that exposes the band may bring the hem too high for that shoe. If you plan to keep the hem down, compare the fit and fabric first and treat the woven edge as a preference.
In a jacket, the construction may outweigh the edge in everyday use. Look at the brown panels separately from the blue fabric. The Firelady listing identifies those panels as waxed sheepskin. The parts meet at places you touch often, including the collar and cuff. Use the instructions for the assembled jacket when deciding whether you can care for it at home. A washing routine you use for all-denim jeans may be unsuitable for the leather.
Compare Jackets With the Layer You Wear Most
If you are browsing the outerwear collection, pick the sweater or shirt you expect to wear beneath the jacket first. Ask for the finished chest and sleeve measurements if a heavy layer is part of your outfit. For jeans already in your wardrobe, the straight-leg jeans styling guide shows how jacket length changes the outfit.
About Firelady Fur · MODERN FUR · STYLE MUSES
Selvedge Denim Questions
Will hemming my jeans remove the selvedge?
Shortening from the bottom can leave the woven edge intact above the new hem. Tapering through the outside seam can cut into it. Tell the tailor you want the edge to remain visible when you turn up the cuff.
Where can I look for selvedge on a denim jacket?
Look for a named detail in the listing, such as an exposed edge inside the front opening. A bound or lined seam can conceal the edge. Ask for a close-up of the detail specified for that jacket.
