Article Summary
Wear a sweater vest in winter over a shirt, a thin turtleneck or a long-sleeve tee. Choose the underlayer by the vest's neck opening and armholes.
A Layer You Can Wear Under a Coat
In winter, wear a thin turtleneck, a smooth long-sleeve tee or a lightweight button-front shirt under a sweater vest. Match the neckline to the look you want, and leave enough room in the armholes for the shirt sleeves to lie flat.
A thick shirt can bunch under the vest when you button the front, even if it lies flat with the vest open. If you plan to keep the vest closed, do that before putting on your coat. Look for a smooth line from the vest's shoulder to the underarm. Bunched shirt fabric at the underarm means there may be too much sleeve volume for that vest's armhole.
Under a Round-Neck Vest
The Six Pence vest has a high round opening and a short body. A fine turtleneck shows above the round opening without the bulk of a folded shirt collar. For a lower neckline, choose a smooth crew-neck tee that stays below the edge of the vest.
A button-front collar can work here, too, provided the collar points lie flat. Take a look with the vest closed and then turn your head. If one collar point slips inside the knit, try a lower shirt collar or keep both points under the vest. A shirt tail that extends well past the short vest can be tucked if you want the hem of the knit to set the waistline.
Under a V-Neck Vest
The Stacking Rehearsal vest has a V-neck and a fitted button front. With a lightweight button-up underneath, the V reveals the shirt collar and the top of its button placket. Keep the shirt flat at the lowest point of the V, where a thick button or fold will be easy to see.
For a softer outfit, wear a fitted long-sleeve tee with a neckline below the V, or a thin high-neck knit that fills it evenly. A low tee leaves the V open against the skin; a high-neck knit fills it with fabric. If you want the V to remain the strongest line, choose a necklace that sits above or below its edge.
Check the Armhole With Your Coat On
With the coat off, raise your forearms as though you were carrying a bag and look at the fabric under the vest's armholes. If the shirt bunches under the vest before the coat goes on, try a shirt with slimmer sleeves. Then put the coat on, repeat the movement and take it off without pulling at the shirt. If the coat sleeve catches the shirt cuff, reduce the cuff bulk or use a roomier coat.
Keep the Outfit Wearable Indoors
Take the coat off in front of a mirror. Sit down and reach forward once. The shirt should stay comfortable under the vest without needing the coat to hide bunching at the waist or underarms.
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For other necklines and lengths, use the sweater types guide before choosing a different shape from the vest collection.
